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Victoria Falls: The Smoke That Thunders

5 min read

The local Kololo-Lozi people had a name for Victoria Falls well before David Livingstone lay eyes upon it in 1855... 

It was in fact their name ‘Mosi-Oa-Tunya’ that inspired Livingstone to set off down the Zambezi in a dugout canoe to find it. He was curious to discover the towering columns of ‘the smoke that thunders’ for himself.

Victoria Falls, the largest waterfall in the world, is nestled between Zambia and Zimbabwe in Southern Africa. This beautiful beast occurs when the mighty Zambezi River flows over the edge of a 111m basaltic cliff, resulting in a curtain of water over a mile wide.

Victoria Falls Bridge

Visiting Victoria Falls is a fantastic option to combine with a safari in southern Africa, but choosing which month to visit the waterfall is very important. 

The water that flows over the falls takes months to flow down from Angola. The volume starts to pick up from February and winds down again in April. There’s a whole host of activities on offer around the waterfall, we’ve listed our favourites below:

Get airborne

The best way to witness the full force of Victoria Falls is undoubtedly from the air. The columns of spray and mist can be seen from miles away. A flight over the falls gives you the chance to visualise what Livingstone was imagining as he wrote ‘scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight’ in his journal.

Interestingly, geologists say the original Victoria Falls was 8km downstream from where it is today. 2 million years of erosion has resulted in the river cutting through seven gorges of rock. The magnificent view of the zigzagging gorges can only truly be appreciated from the air.

Microlight or helicopter flights above the falls. Credit Dana Allen.

Combine with a safari

Peak season at Victoria Falls coincides with 'Green Season' in the nearby South Luangwa and Hwange National Parks in Zambia and Zimbabwe respectively. 

The green season tends to have more rainfall than dry season, but it is calving season so the chance of seeing some fantastic predatory action is higher. It’s also the best time to visit for birding, and the costs can be significantly reduced. 

During the dry season, when the game viewing is at its best, the water levels in the falls drop and by late October/November the dramatic waterfall is not much more than a stream. This is when the rock formations and gorges are best viewed and swimming is permitted.

Elephants congregating around a watering hole during dry season

Get on/in the water

With a number of ways to get close to the waterfalls, we’ve picked our favourites below:

A sunset cruise is a fantastic way to ease yourself into, or toast the end of a holiday. Sipping on a G&T amongst hippo on the mighty Zambezi is a special feeling. Sunrise is an equally magical time to be on the water, fewer boats are about, it's pure serenity.

Devil’s Pool is a natural occurrence at the top of the falls where, in dry season when water flow is lighter, you can swim right up to the edge of the falls. It’s an incredible feeling knowing that just next to you there is a 111m vertical drop.

The more adventurous types will be pleased to hear that it’s possible to white-water raft down Batoka Gorge. With 19 named Class IV and V rapids during low water, the stretch of river is one of the most exhilarating in the world. Not one for the feint hearted!

If you’re after something more laidback, relaxing canoe and mokoro trips are available on the Zambezi above the falls. It’s also a great way to get close to some of the wildlife that can be found on the riverbanks.

Mokoro on the Zambian side of the Falls

Learn about the history of Livingstone and Victoria Falls

These two towns adjacent to Victoria Falls on each side of the border are steeped in fascinating history. Visiting the area offers the opportunity to learn about its fascinating past and understand the local Zambian and Zimbabwean culture. 

You’ll also have the opportunity to learn about the life of David Livingstone himself. Did you know his heart is buried under a mpundu tree near Chitambo?

Visit both sides of the falls

The view of Victoria Falls is arguably better from the Zimbabwean side. Although on the Zambian side you can get closer to the top and bottom of the falls. A visit wouldn’t be complete without visiting both, easily achieved just walking across the bridge (but don't forget your passport!).

See a moonbow

If you coincide your visit with a full moon, you’ll have a chance of seeing a rare 'moonbow'. 

This natural phenomenon, similar to a rainbow, occurs when moonlight refracts through spray thrown up by the waterfall. All there is to do is just hope it’s not cloudy…

A moonbow seen at Victoria Falls

If you’ve been inspired and would like to talk about how and when to visit Victoria Falls with us, don’t hesitate to send us an email at safari@bonamy.co.uk

Vanessa Beldam

Ness first landed in Africa in 2008, when on a whim she accepted a job working in a safari camp in Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park. Little did she know how deep an effect this would have on he...

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